22 December - Chefchaouen
Got an early (8AM) start driving out of Fes. Drove first to Meknés, one of the four royal cities. Founded in the 11th century as a military settlement, it became the capital of Morocco under Sultan Moulay Ismail. The medina has two walls to protect it from siege.
We stopped first at the main gate, Bab Mansour, built in 1732 and named after its architect El-Mansour. It has beautiful mosaics and columns taken from Volubilis. According to legend, Moulay Ismail inspected the gate after it was done and asked El-Mansour if he could do better. El Mansour was compelled to answer yes, which made the sultan so mad he had El Mansour executed. Across was the Plaza of Destruction, because gardens were destroyed for it. Stopped at Bassin de l'Aguedal, a reservoir built by Moulay Ismail for "in case". Next to it was the granary and stables for his 12,000 horses.
The next stop was the tomb of Moulay Ismail (1672-1727). We drove up for views of the whole city, then went to Volubilis, which was an ancient city that began in the 3rd century BC as a Berber city. It then became part of Mauretania, and was once considered the administrative center of that kingdom. Later, after the 1st century AD it expanded rapidly under Roman rule. During this time a lot of the houses were constructed with large mosaic floors.
Unfortunately during mid 18th century, looters came and took much of the stone to build Meknés. Nonetheless, it's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Went to Chefchaouen, a city known for its blue buildings. ((To get here we argued with the driver since he didn't want to take us for 2 days. Ended up paying 1100 instead of 2000, though he first wanted 1500. The hotel man helped us; we were going to give 1200.))
Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 as a small fortress to help fight off the Portuguese invasions. In medieval times, lots of Moriscos, Jews, and Ghomara tribes settled there. In 1920, Spain seized the city but it was returned following Morocco's independence in 1956.
We walked around town - its really very pretty, with blue doors with white walls. The reason for the blue is a mystery - some people think the Jews introduced the color when they fled from Hitler; something think it represents the sky and heaven, and some think it is meant to repel mosquitos.
And then some people think it was just painted that way to bring in tourists... which, if that's true, was genius because it totally worked!
It was misting very hard even though there was blue sky and a big rainbow. It started raining even, for a short time.
We wandered around the medina, then had dinner in a nice price-fixed restaurant - more harira (soup), tagine, and couscous. Walked back to the hotel in very windy conditions. The hotel is a cheap backpacker place, but fairly clean and so far quiet. Its not heated though, so we've got lots of blankets. Tomorrow, we'll experiment with trains and busses to get to Marrakech...!
25 December, AM - Marrakech
I'm having breakfast in a riad in the medina - it's so nice!! Finally took a shower after 3 days.... on the 23rd, we woke up in Chefchaouen. Breakfast was at the Rif Hotel, then we walked down to see the market (not very impressive). What was impressive was the wind! Blew all night and was still going strong in the morning. Took a bus to Tetouan (fairly short ride, about an hour). Its a busy, crowded, noisy, dirty city. Checked our bags to the concierge and walked to ONCF station... closed! They siesta here! It was around 1:30 and the boy next door said they open at 3. So we walked into the medina for a while, which was nothing too special. Back to ONCF to check. It still wasn't open, but another lady was there with her bags, baffled too. We went down to find food - ate at a random restaurant - had chicken and was watching the server give food to the next table, and the waiter gave us free harira! At 3 Alex ran over to the station, but the computer wasn't working so we just wanted to get to Tangier to catch the overnight Couldn't get a bus at the bus station, so we took a petit taxi to the Grande taxi. We shared with 2 others (usually there are 6 passengers, but the old woman in front was larger...) Got in to Tangier Station at around 5:30 for an 11:00 train! So we sat and waited... for a LONG time. Finished my book! Got on the train (a 1st class sleeper that was pretty comfortable) and slept most of the trip.
Arrived in Marrakech at around 8:45 yesterday morning and took a taxi... to the wrong gate. We took another to the right place, where we were met by someone who walked us to Riad Abassiya. SO nice. Its on a tiny random street, through long narrow hallways. Opens to a nice courtyard with 6 rooms - all gorgeous. Check in, had mint tea, then wandered around the riad. Then we got escorted by Mustapha to Central Gate and went wandering.
We had lunch at a totally random stall in the medina - had a really good mixed grille. Visited Ben Youssif (another nicely renovated madrasa where there were over 100 tiny windowless student rooms. Also saw Qoubba Almoravides, the oldest building in Marrakech, which used to be one of the outbuildings for the Ben Youssef mosque.
Walked around the souks to Place Jemaa el Fna - a big plaza with lots of people and stalls. We saw a cobra snake charmer, storyteller, henna people, dancers, musicians, juice stands, fortunetellers, and tons of people.
Walked down to the main tower, then back to catch a petite taxi. Started hailing - kind of random - then suddenly stopped. We went back to the riad to relax before dinner.
Headed out around 7:15, wandered around until we found a nice restaurant for our Christmas Dinner - Dar Marjane. Sat in the courtyard for drinks, then went into a room for a 5 course dinner. The restaurant is in an old palace, nicely decorated.
The starter was 14 small appetizer dishes, including calf liver and sheep brain. The entree - turkey with honey, pigeon crepe, and lemon chicken.
The main course was lamb tagine, followed by couscous, then dessert - pastilla (crispy fried dough with cream poured on top). Then tea and christmas log, cookies, and orange with cinnamon. Then cognac or creme de menthe or some other alcohol. Then after dinner, was the entertainment - a belly dancer, then musicians/dancers. OH, before dinner, we washed our hands in a basin as the attendant poured water. After dinner, it was rose water. It was prix fixe for 600 DH each. Dinner started at 8PM, and we didn't leave until 12:30. Went back to the hotel and went straight to sleep!
Today we get to spend a full day in Marrakech, which is nice because we can take it easy and spend another night here. One funny thing about being here is hearing Western music - Dido in the cab, Britney Spears in the riad. Mixed in with the sounds of Morocco - especially the sound of the call to prayer from the minarets, hammering, cymbals, etc.
Its cold here - definitely not what you think of when you think of Africa. It doesn't feel African - has more of a Middle Eastern feeling. Yesterday, we spoke Chinese, French, Spanish, and English. In the North, it used to be occupied by the Spanish so a lot of older people speak Spanish - plus, its just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain.
25 December, PM - Marrakech
Lots of walking today! Had a leisurely breakfast at the riad, then walked back through the medina. We wandered through the souks, past Jemaa el Fna (the main market square). Tried first to go to Saadian Tombs, but it was closed when we got there (darn siesta!) So we walked across to Palais Bahia. Contrary to the guide book, it was closed too! Aargh! Set off again, back to the tombs, and we finally got in.
The complex was a necropolis in the 1100s, and known as the Saadian Tombs from the 16th to 18th centuries. About 60 members from the Saadi Dynasty were interred there. The most famous room is the room with the twelve columns, where the grave of the son of the sultan's son is.
We then walked to Palais el Badi, built in the late 1500s. It has a large courtyard in the middle, with lots of storks that nest around.
Finally, we went to Palais Bahia, a huge palace built by ex-slave Si Moussa who rose to become Grand Vizier to the sultan. His son Ahmed ben Moussa then took over the role and expanded the palace, also naming it for his favorite mistress (thus the name Bahia: "the beautiful, the brilliant"). There were lots of huge rooms, which to be honest soon started looking the same...
We walked back through the souks to see if we could find anything to buy, but were discouraged by Alex who worried that the car was too small. Had dinner a little outside Jemaa el Fna at Restaurant Iceberg - OK food from a set menu (omelet, brochette, fries, and a funny dessert - yogurt and oranges).
Walked back through Jemaa el Fna for pictures - lots from the food stands and random entertainers, but we didn't see any good snake charmers... it's probably way too cold for snakes!
Tomorrow, we're renting a car.... eek!
26 December - Ouarzazate
Made it driving out of Marrakech! Actually, it wasn't too bad... the power went out last night at the read, but luckily the heat was from gas. Woke up and had breakfast, then took a petite taxi to Avis. Drove out (luckily, just down one block then a right turn... then no turns until Ouarzazate - the gateway into the Sahara!)
Stopped at a market - Metro - which was basically a Costco. Got oranges, olives, and yogurt - there was a whole dairy room, and they had jackets outside that you could wear while shopping in there! Kind of smart, if you think about it.
Drove up through the Atlas Mountains, over and through the Tizi n'Tichka Pass (rising up 7,400 ft) - very snowy and not well plowed. But driving through wasn't too bad. Found Hotel Oscar, on the premises of the Atlas Studio.
We drove back into Ouarzazate to find one Kasbah (which we didn't find), so we decided to go to Aït Benhaddou on the other end of town, 32 kilometers out. It's a fortified village along the former caravan route from the Sahara to Marrakech, with amazing Moroccan earthen clay architecture. There are still a handful of families that live inside the ksar - the walled city.
Got there right when the sun was going down, so we had a few great photo shots - perfect timing!! To get across to the actual town, there is a small river which now has water, so you have to pay to get horseback rides across.
Dinner was at Chez Dimitri - so-so food, but it has an interesting history - it was first a French Foreign Legion outpost, and was the first good restaurant in Ouarzazate.
27 December - M'Hamid
We're in the Sahara!! We got up late this morning and visited Atlas Studios - the world's largest film studio. Took the tour with Youssef, who was very nice (and gave us our money back - 90DH, so we tipped him 50). We saw the original plane from Jewel of the Nile, plus sets from Mummy Returns, Gladiator, and the giant castle built for Kingdom of Heaven, the new Orlando Bloom movie.
Drove through Ouarzazate (stopping at Kasbah Taourirt for some pictures), then through town looking for bread. Found a market to stock up, then off! Drove southwest to Zagora, through the Draa Valley - nice scenery, pretty windy still. There is a famous "Tombouctou" sign in Zagora that we had to stop to see... supposedly, it takes 52 days to get to Timbuktu, Mali, on foot or by camel.
Followed the oasis down through Tamegroute, to the one lane road (though it is nicely paved) to M'hamid. We did se a few small dunes, but it's mostly rocky desert. Got in and found the Hotel Azalay, a very nice new hotel. Met the 'manager' Mohammed, who took us in his 4x4 first out to see the sand, then through the palmerie to the old Kasbah - old M'hamid. It just got electricity 3 years ago!! There were little kids who followed us through town - Don't speak french.
Came back to the hotel and walked into town to check out restaurants (none good) and prices for 4x4s. Came back to the hotel for dinner (excellent food and service! Kefta tagine, great soup and lots of it, and tea). Mohammed came and talked to us a bunch - a really nice guy. Showed us a meteor he (or someone) found in the desert. He sells them in Arizona. Lots of starts and a full moon - its beautiful, but cold! Tomorrow, the dunes!
December 28 - Zagora
We woke up early this morning and headed off for the dunes! Mohammed took us to pick up our driver, who we suspect might have still been sleeping... gave us tea (no mint out here!) and took a land rover out - started with rocky desert, then a scattering of dunes. 2.5 hours later, we made it to the Chigaga Dunes - 300 meters high, all Saharan sand.
It was very windy, which made it hard to sit in the very fine, powdery sand. There were a bunch of small black beetles with cool bumpy markings on them.
It was also interesting because there were randomly a few kids wandering around, and we weren't sure where they had come from.
Had tea/biscuits/peanuts in a Berber tent, then lunch of moroccan salad, tagine, and oranges. Drove around to an oasis - which was really cool - palm trees, frogs and fish, and lots of birds. Saw numerous camels as well.
The car stopped working on the way back - the gears weren't shifting, then all of a sudden it started working again. Made it back to M'Hamid by 3, then drove out of town to Zagora. Had dinner at Hotel Kasbah Asmaa - nicely decorated, but very cold.
29 December - Taroudant
It was a driving day today. Drove back up to Agdz, then took a smaller mining route through to Tamnougalt.
We tried to take a short detour to see birds, but there weren't any. But it was nice to see the countryside. And we did see some of the famed goats climbing the argan trees to eat the nuts!
Arrived early (4ish) to Taroudant and drove through the medina to the hotel. We walked around the medina - snacking on a roti thing (fresh and hot!) donut, and stopped in the square for a cafe au lait. We went next door for dinner - a very good brochette with maroc salade and fries. There was a soccer game on the tv - Morocco vs. Spain, so we stayed to watch. It was fun to see it with the locals. There was minor cheering, but Maroc lost.
30 December - Essouira
Another long driving day. Got up early and went through the medina for breakfast. Got fresh donuts - YUM, but very oily, for 1DH each. Also bought more oranges. Drove out of Taroudant - saw more tree goats on the side of the road so we stopped to take pictures. We gave 10 DH to the boy watching them, plus the rest of the oranges (about 5). The family gathered around because I was looking at the map, so I showed them the map and then pictures out of the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide books.
Then we drove out to the coast through Agadir, where we bought some argan oil for salad, plus soap and some amlou - a mixture of argan oil, almonds, and honey for dipping bread. Drove north along the very pretty coast - very big surf, but seems too cold, especially with the wind. Looked again for a place to see the bald ibis, but no go.
Got into Essouira around 4 - checked in to the hotel, then walked around the medina. We wandered out to the city wall with the cannons, then down the harbor to see the fishing boats. We walked through to the beach, then decided to do some shopping - which is actually really good here - not too hard a sell, and good prices. Got two salt and pepper pots for 15 each, some olives, and two metal lanterns for 60 each. Yay, got my shopping done!
Went down to the pier again for dinner at Chez Sam - not great food but good fish soup - also fresh sardines (lots of 'em) and some battered fish, which was so-so. Tomorrow is our last full day in Morocco!
31 December - Casablanca
Last day in Morocco! Woke up this morning to the sound from the minaret calling the prayer. Had breakfast at the riad, then left around 10. Drove up to Safi, where we stopped at a shopping center to get olives. Then to Oualidia (Morocco's oyster capital) to see an oyster farm (no. 007!) - but it wasn't that interesting. Guess it would help if I actually ate oysters... Stopped in El Jadida to see the Portuguese city - especially the underground cistern - had some good reflections in little water. Walked around the city, which was small but nice.
Then we drove to Casablanca - it got more and more crowded as we drove in. Finally found the hotel, walked to El Mounia Restaurant - which was really nice, for kefta brochettes and a last bowl of harira. Then took a cab to see Hassan II Mosque. It's closed at night, but there are lots of lights on, which makes it look really cool.
Got lost wandering through the medina coming back - very bad idea late at night on New Year's Eve. Got a ride back from a nice man to the main square, but got bugged again near the hotel - rescued again by local store people who walked us back to the hotel. So at least there were some good people along with the bad!
Got an early (8AM) start driving out of Fes. Drove first to Meknés, one of the four royal cities. Founded in the 11th century as a military settlement, it became the capital of Morocco under Sultan Moulay Ismail. The medina has two walls to protect it from siege.
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| The Meknes royal stables |
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| Love all the stork nests! |
The next stop was the tomb of Moulay Ismail (1672-1727). We drove up for views of the whole city, then went to Volubilis, which was an ancient city that began in the 3rd century BC as a Berber city. It then became part of Mauretania, and was once considered the administrative center of that kingdom. Later, after the 1st century AD it expanded rapidly under Roman rule. During this time a lot of the houses were constructed with large mosaic floors.
Unfortunately during mid 18th century, looters came and took much of the stone to build Meknés. Nonetheless, it's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Went to Chefchaouen, a city known for its blue buildings. ((To get here we argued with the driver since he didn't want to take us for 2 days. Ended up paying 1100 instead of 2000, though he first wanted 1500. The hotel man helped us; we were going to give 1200.))
Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 as a small fortress to help fight off the Portuguese invasions. In medieval times, lots of Moriscos, Jews, and Ghomara tribes settled there. In 1920, Spain seized the city but it was returned following Morocco's independence in 1956.
We walked around town - its really very pretty, with blue doors with white walls. The reason for the blue is a mystery - some people think the Jews introduced the color when they fled from Hitler; something think it represents the sky and heaven, and some think it is meant to repel mosquitos.
And then some people think it was just painted that way to bring in tourists... which, if that's true, was genius because it totally worked!
It was misting very hard even though there was blue sky and a big rainbow. It started raining even, for a short time.We wandered around the medina, then had dinner in a nice price-fixed restaurant - more harira (soup), tagine, and couscous. Walked back to the hotel in very windy conditions. The hotel is a cheap backpacker place, but fairly clean and so far quiet. Its not heated though, so we've got lots of blankets. Tomorrow, we'll experiment with trains and busses to get to Marrakech...!
25 December, AM - Marrakech
I'm having breakfast in a riad in the medina - it's so nice!! Finally took a shower after 3 days.... on the 23rd, we woke up in Chefchaouen. Breakfast was at the Rif Hotel, then we walked down to see the market (not very impressive). What was impressive was the wind! Blew all night and was still going strong in the morning. Took a bus to Tetouan (fairly short ride, about an hour). Its a busy, crowded, noisy, dirty city. Checked our bags to the concierge and walked to ONCF station... closed! They siesta here! It was around 1:30 and the boy next door said they open at 3. So we walked into the medina for a while, which was nothing too special. Back to ONCF to check. It still wasn't open, but another lady was there with her bags, baffled too. We went down to find food - ate at a random restaurant - had chicken and was watching the server give food to the next table, and the waiter gave us free harira! At 3 Alex ran over to the station, but the computer wasn't working so we just wanted to get to Tangier to catch the overnight Couldn't get a bus at the bus station, so we took a petit taxi to the Grande taxi. We shared with 2 others (usually there are 6 passengers, but the old woman in front was larger...) Got in to Tangier Station at around 5:30 for an 11:00 train! So we sat and waited... for a LONG time. Finished my book! Got on the train (a 1st class sleeper that was pretty comfortable) and slept most of the trip.
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| Ben Youssif - not sure I'd get much studying done...! |
We had lunch at a totally random stall in the medina - had a really good mixed grille. Visited Ben Youssif (another nicely renovated madrasa where there were over 100 tiny windowless student rooms. Also saw Qoubba Almoravides, the oldest building in Marrakech, which used to be one of the outbuildings for the Ben Youssef mosque.
Walked around the souks to Place Jemaa el Fna - a big plaza with lots of people and stalls. We saw a cobra snake charmer, storyteller, henna people, dancers, musicians, juice stands, fortunetellers, and tons of people.
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| Love how the spices are displayed! |
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| mmmMMMmmmm...olives.....! |
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| The gorgeous Dar Marjane courtyard |
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| The tables were decorated with rose petals, and the "Joyeux Noel" was carefully spelled out in SEQUINS!! |
Today we get to spend a full day in Marrakech, which is nice because we can take it easy and spend another night here. One funny thing about being here is hearing Western music - Dido in the cab, Britney Spears in the riad. Mixed in with the sounds of Morocco - especially the sound of the call to prayer from the minarets, hammering, cymbals, etc.
Its cold here - definitely not what you think of when you think of Africa. It doesn't feel African - has more of a Middle Eastern feeling. Yesterday, we spoke Chinese, French, Spanish, and English. In the North, it used to be occupied by the Spanish so a lot of older people speak Spanish - plus, its just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain.
25 December, PM - Marrakech
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| Around the streets of Marrakech |
The complex was a necropolis in the 1100s, and known as the Saadian Tombs from the 16th to 18th centuries. About 60 members from the Saadi Dynasty were interred there. The most famous room is the room with the twelve columns, where the grave of the son of the sultan's son is.
We then walked to Palais el Badi, built in the late 1500s. It has a large courtyard in the middle, with lots of storks that nest around.
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| In the Palais Bahia |
Finally, we went to Palais Bahia, a huge palace built by ex-slave Si Moussa who rose to become Grand Vizier to the sultan. His son Ahmed ben Moussa then took over the role and expanded the palace, also naming it for his favorite mistress (thus the name Bahia: "the beautiful, the brilliant"). There were lots of huge rooms, which to be honest soon started looking the same...
We walked back through the souks to see if we could find anything to buy, but were discouraged by Alex who worried that the car was too small. Had dinner a little outside Jemaa el Fna at Restaurant Iceberg - OK food from a set menu (omelet, brochette, fries, and a funny dessert - yogurt and oranges).
Walked back through Jemaa el Fna for pictures - lots from the food stands and random entertainers, but we didn't see any good snake charmers... it's probably way too cold for snakes!Tomorrow, we're renting a car.... eek!
26 December - Ouarzazate
Made it driving out of Marrakech! Actually, it wasn't too bad... the power went out last night at the read, but luckily the heat was from gas. Woke up and had breakfast, then took a petite taxi to Avis. Drove out (luckily, just down one block then a right turn... then no turns until Ouarzazate - the gateway into the Sahara!)
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| Over the Tizi n'Tichka Pass |
Drove up through the Atlas Mountains, over and through the Tizi n'Tichka Pass (rising up 7,400 ft) - very snowy and not well plowed. But driving through wasn't too bad. Found Hotel Oscar, on the premises of the Atlas Studio.
We drove back into Ouarzazate to find one Kasbah (which we didn't find), so we decided to go to Aït Benhaddou on the other end of town, 32 kilometers out. It's a fortified village along the former caravan route from the Sahara to Marrakech, with amazing Moroccan earthen clay architecture. There are still a handful of families that live inside the ksar - the walled city.
Got there right when the sun was going down, so we had a few great photo shots - perfect timing!! To get across to the actual town, there is a small river which now has water, so you have to pay to get horseback rides across.
Sibyl was too scared to go, so Alex and I went. Had good views of the area and the full moon tonight gave more great views.
Dinner was at Chez Dimitri - so-so food, but it has an interesting history - it was first a French Foreign Legion outpost, and was the first good restaurant in Ouarzazate.
27 December - M'Hamid
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| From Jewel of the Nile... |
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| and a set from Gladiator - but I didn't recognize it! |
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| The Draa Valley |
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| Timbuktu, thataway-> ! |
Followed the oasis down through Tamegroute, to the one lane road (though it is nicely paved) to M'hamid. We did se a few small dunes, but it's mostly rocky desert. Got in and found the Hotel Azalay, a very nice new hotel. Met the 'manager' Mohammed, who took us in his 4x4 first out to see the sand, then through the palmerie to the old Kasbah - old M'hamid. It just got electricity 3 years ago!! There were little kids who followed us through town - Don't speak french.
Came back to the hotel and walked into town to check out restaurants (none good) and prices for 4x4s. Came back to the hotel for dinner (excellent food and service! Kefta tagine, great soup and lots of it, and tea). Mohammed came and talked to us a bunch - a really nice guy. Showed us a meteor he (or someone) found in the desert. He sells them in Arizona. Lots of starts and a full moon - its beautiful, but cold! Tomorrow, the dunes!
December 28 - Zagora
We woke up early this morning and headed off for the dunes! Mohammed took us to pick up our driver, who we suspect might have still been sleeping... gave us tea (no mint out here!) and took a land rover out - started with rocky desert, then a scattering of dunes. 2.5 hours later, we made it to the Chigaga Dunes - 300 meters high, all Saharan sand.
It was very windy, which made it hard to sit in the very fine, powdery sand. There were a bunch of small black beetles with cool bumpy markings on them.
It was also interesting because there were randomly a few kids wandering around, and we weren't sure where they had come from. |
| You'd think it'd be hot in the Sahara, but nope... windy and cold!! |
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| A lovely break in a Berber tent |
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| Yes, their eyelashes are enviously long! |
29 December - Taroudant
It was a driving day today. Drove back up to Agdz, then took a smaller mining route through to Tamnougalt.We tried to take a short detour to see birds, but there weren't any. But it was nice to see the countryside. And we did see some of the famed goats climbing the argan trees to eat the nuts!
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| It was sometimes slow going... |
30 December - Essouira
Another long driving day. Got up early and went through the medina for breakfast. Got fresh donuts - YUM, but very oily, for 1DH each. Also bought more oranges. Drove out of Taroudant - saw more tree goats on the side of the road so we stopped to take pictures. We gave 10 DH to the boy watching them, plus the rest of the oranges (about 5). The family gathered around because I was looking at the map, so I showed them the map and then pictures out of the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide books.
Then we drove out to the coast through Agadir, where we bought some argan oil for salad, plus soap and some amlou - a mixture of argan oil, almonds, and honey for dipping bread. Drove north along the very pretty coast - very big surf, but seems too cold, especially with the wind. Looked again for a place to see the bald ibis, but no go.
Got into Essouira around 4 - checked in to the hotel, then walked around the medina. We wandered out to the city wall with the cannons, then down the harbor to see the fishing boats. We walked through to the beach, then decided to do some shopping - which is actually really good here - not too hard a sell, and good prices. Got two salt and pepper pots for 15 each, some olives, and two metal lanterns for 60 each. Yay, got my shopping done!
Went down to the pier again for dinner at Chez Sam - not great food but good fish soup - also fresh sardines (lots of 'em) and some battered fish, which was so-so. Tomorrow is our last full day in Morocco!
31 December - Casablanca
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| Portuguese Cistern |
Then we drove to Casablanca - it got more and more crowded as we drove in. Finally found the hotel, walked to El Mounia Restaurant - which was really nice, for kefta brochettes and a last bowl of harira. Then took a cab to see Hassan II Mosque. It's closed at night, but there are lots of lights on, which makes it look really cool.
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| Hassan II |
Got lost wandering through the medina coming back - very bad idea late at night on New Year's Eve. Got a ride back from a nice man to the main square, but got bugged again near the hotel - rescued again by local store people who walked us back to the hotel. So at least there were some good people along with the bad!
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