Morocco Part I

19 December - Rabat
First full day in Morocco! Got in last night after a long but easy trip - SFO to LHR (hooray Economy Plus!). Had a 45 minute layover in London, which was a bit nervewracking because of the long security line. 3 hr flight to Casablanca - went through very smoothly, didn't have to wait for bags, and ran right away to catch a train to Rabat. Met a nice, friendly guy, Rashid (Richard) on the train - liked to talk a lot but he was very friendly and helpful. Got to Villa Americain around 9:30PM, which means we missed the embassy Christmas party - oh well.

Christmas trees are impossible to get
 in Morocco... this was the
biggest they could find!

It's a BEAUTIFUL 3 story house, with guards around 24/7. When we drove up, there was a Marine holding an AK-47 (or, at least I think so with my untrained eye, haha) in a guardhouse outside. I'm staying on the 3rd floor, in a room called La Poeta (it's embroidered on the pillowcases!!), with my own bathroom. Outside, you can see the outline of guards pacing back and forth along the outer wall of the complex. Alex and Sib are in the VIP room downstairs. Nancy had changed all the photos in my room so they were pictures of me and Julia!

Ever wonder what the US Ambassador's residence looks like in another country? Like this!:
 

This morning, we got up at 9 - the chef had breakfast waiting - and we all sat around the giant dining room table. The servers came in to give us all our meals - on plates with domed covers - and when they placed our plates down, they turned each plate to make sure the presidential seal was facing the right direction! Keep in mind, we're all sitting there in our pajamas... awkward!

Cake is more delicious when the
US Ambassador hand-frosts it for you...

After breakfast, we went down to the medina with Julia, Nancy, and Aili. We walked around and shopped (bought 2 scarves). Then took a taxi home and had tea and cake with the family.

Storks nest on anything tall,
like the minaret at Chellah!

After the brief rest, we headed out to Chellah - the ancient ruins in the southeast part of Rabat. It was  formerly a Muslim necropolis, Phoenician trading emporium, and an ancient Roman colony. One of the few remaining structures is the minaret from the ruined mosque dating back to the 13th century.

The ancient ruins at Chellah

Walked back home. Rested and played cards, then had dinner of chicken tagine (stew dish baked in a clay pot - really good!) Tomorrow, we're off to Fes on the early train. Before we left, Nancy gave us the direct phone number to the US Marines, in case we get in trouble...! Not too sure if that's reassuring, or really really scary...



20 December - Fes
Long day! Got up at 6AM to leave for the train. As we were getting ourselves breakfast, Kamel came and started serving us! Fresh OJ again...! Then took us to the train station. Didn't have to wait long to catch the 7:17 train. The city of Fes (sometimes known as Fez) is the second largest city in Morocco, in the northern inlands area near the Atlas Mountains.

Arrived in Fes around 10:45AM - walked right next door to the hotel. Then, walked over to the medina, thru Fes el Jedid (the post office) to meet our guide. As we were going, a guy kept following us trying to be our guide - would NOT give up. Really annoyingly persistent, even when we said no. Had a bit of a hard time finding Bab Bou Jeloud, the ornate main western gate into the Old City (even after asking a policeman). Finally got there, went in twice for bread for lunch (fending off more would-be guides).

Met Saida at 1PM who was our guide to take us around. The medina started around 808AD; Bab Bou Jeloud is the main gate, known as a sentry gate. The old entry dates back to the 12th century, built up to defend and control access into the city. The new gate is fairly new, built in 1913. Past the gates there are no cars, which is nice.

Stopped to try snails from a vendor on the street - ewwww... can't say I liked them! Very strange spices... 

The pharmacy... prominently displaying a picture of Clinton...

We stopped outside the wood museum, then went through the carpentry souk and stopped in the pharmacy. Bought white musk because it smells good, and also got anise in a little bag - good for sinuses. Went through the medina, which is crazy crowded, with random small side streets all over. The streets weren't in any grid pattern, so it was so, so easy to get lost. But it's a really fascinating and interesting place, with things to see at every turn.

al-Attarine Madrasa

Next we stopped outside the tomb of Moulay Idriss II - the most sacred shrine in Morocco - the founder of Fes. We're not allowed inside, but it was beautiful - carved wood, plaster, and mosaic walls. Saw several other mosques from the outside - but you're not permitted to go in unless you're Muslim.

We did see El Attarine, which was totally empty when we got there so we could take pictures. It was built by the sultan of the Marinid Dynasty in 1325 as a madrasa - a center of religious learning to promote Sunni teaching. It's located in the perfume market area, thus named al-Attarine (The Perfumers).

Went to see the carpet seller - hard sell!! but it was in a cool old house that one family used to live in, but is now a rug co-op. There was a huge inner courtyard with rooms coming off the sides. Went to one to look down at the tanneries - so interesting, but it smelled really funny. Its where they soak and dye leather from cows, sheep, goat, and camel. It also had a nice panorama of the city.













After that, we walked through the copper souk and the dying souk, then out. We left Saida, who arranged our driver for Tetouan. We walked back through the medina (very impressed with ourselves - no guide!! But there are blue star "guides" to follow, even though it's pretty hard to see them all) Walked home, then through Ville Nouveau to Zageeb restaurant for dinner. Had traditional Maroc soup (like minestrone - really good) and couscous (not so good). Walked home. Lots of walking today, so I'm tired! Overall, it's a really interesting city but a bit overwhelming, plus its crowded and dirty. But maybe just because I'm exhausted!

21 December - Fes
Got up this morning after a very restless night - didn't think I'd make it all day, but I did! Started at 8:30 with a taxi that took us first to Borj Nord to see the view (but the sun was on the wrong side for pictures) then to Borj Sud for a good panorama of the entire medina. Then we went into the medina, where we were much more confident than yesterday - wandering around and checking out random streets. Got oranges and VERY fresh donuts - good, but SO greasy!

Went through the market - past a butcher selling camel - they displayed the camel head for all to see! Also saw a bunch of goat heads. Then we started wandering. Alex had 2 destinations - the tannery and the wood museum. Thought we'd find the Karaouine (university) and make our way from there, but we got sidetracked following the signs for the Dar Batha museum.






Got met outside by a kid, who went around inside following us. When we left, we didn't really want him to guide us but he lead us to the tannery - not the balcony view that we wanted, but actually down INTO the tannery!! Really strong smells, colors, and lots of animal hides... kind of gross!












We went up to the roof where we got a great view, and saw them scraping the skins to soften up the leather. Got lots of pictures and met some very nice workers. Want to send them the pictures - their address is [Maison des Tanneurs, Fes, Sidi Mosa]. One guys was named Thami Wazami and he gave us his phone number: 070.06.16.09... funny! I wonder if he thinks we'll actually call him... Wonder if we actually will...!

Thanks, kid, for the tour

Cherratin Medersa

After leaving the tanneries, we randomly wandered into Madeira Ech Cherratin, another madrasa (but the only one in Fez that wasn't from the Marinid Dynasty). It's also the largest madrasa in Fes. Although it was built much later, in the 17th century, it was much more run down than yesterday's.  No plaster, the mosaics were mostly gone, but the wood was intact.

The Wood Museum

We found (easily!) the Funduq al-Najjariyyin - the Wood Museum, which was very modern, well kept, and nice inside. It's probably the most visited touristy place, since it is the poster child for the medina. After the museum we went up to the roof where, along with a great view (and frequent whiffs of the tannery), they had a small tea house so we stopped in for a cup of tea. It was really nice and relaxing up there, away from the crowd!

That's a lot of satellite dishes...!

We walked down through the Blue Gate to lunch - more soup and tagine - baked in a cone clay pot. There was a cat that kept begging for food... like a dog. After lunch we walked through Mellah, the old Jewish quarter. It was much easier to wander around, getting lost and talking to random people.

Fes Mellah

Royal Palace Gates, near Mellah

We stopped to watch two guys playing parcheesi and take pictures. We saw the Jewish cemetery from the outside - with its white burial mounds. A man tried to guide us, then wanted a cup of cafe, but we left. Walked back to the hotel then went out for dinner - brochette of beef and more soup. Back to the hotel now to pack to leave tomorrow!