We were spending 9 days in Madre de Dios, and each day we had multiple forays into the rainforest. We were hiking 7-10 miles, usually on two or three outings each day, with some boat rides interspersed.
Stairmaster, schmairmaster |
From the tower we could see the top of the canopy, and the emergent layer (the tops of the tallest trees) |
From the top platform, we had a stunning view of the endless sea of pristine forest, stretching for miles in every direction. Because we were above the overstory, it was much easier to spot the many species of birds that flock in the treetops.
Clockwise, from top left: White-fronted nunbird, blue dacnis, yellow-backed tanager, mealy parrot |
Just look at the gorgeous colors on these green and purple honeycreepers! |
WHEW, it's hot up there! |
Once the sun rose, it quickly got very, very hot so we made our way back down to the shade of the forest floor. One of the most sought-after sightings in the area is the Harpy eagle, one of the world's largest raptors - which can grow to be over three feet tall.
Searching for that Harpy |
Jillian, waiting patiently in the blind |
We spent about an hour at the blind and even went back in the afternoon, but the eagle didn't show itself. We did catch sight of the nest, though - so cool knowing that when the eagles finished it, it would be the size of a small room!!
The nest |
On another trip down to the river, we spotted this white (spectacled) caiman. The name 'spectacled' comes from the bony ridge between their eyes, that look like a pair of glasses. Caimans have more pointy snouts and longer, sharper teeth than their alligator cousins.
Here's hoping for a snack! |
Four different types of cacao! |
We crossed over to the other side of the river to visit a local farmer, who allowed us to try the various fruits that were planted on his property. The most interesting to me was the multiple varieties of cacao - the flesh is sweet and delicious, and I would never suspect that their seeds to be the hidden source for cocoa!
One morning, we took a trip to Lago Condenado, an oxbow lake (formed by the shifting waters of the river). Along the banks, we saw a small flock of hoatzin, with their distinctive blue faces and red eyes.
It was hot on the lake, under the blazing sun! Good thing we all had our 'hats'... |
In one of our more intriguing sightings, Paul pointed to a dead log up ahead and told us all, "I see at least five mammals there!" We didn't see anything, then he upped his number. "Six. No, seven. At least ten." After our hint that this animal could fly, we figured out that they were bats - but we still couldn't find them.
It wasn't until we were parallel and could see their silhouettes that we finally discerned the upturned noses of these extremely camouflaged Long-nosed Proboscis bats.
Such great camouflage! |
At the buttresses of the kapok |
Inside the columnar tree - bigger than most NYC studio apartments! |
Near the strangler fig was a huge kapok tree, with lovely flying buttress roots. Kapoks are one of the tallest trees in the forest, which means they are vulnerable to gusts of wind up above the forest canopy. Because it has a shallow root system (which is common for rainforest trees because the fertile soil is at the surface), it forms the buttresses to help keep it from toppling over.
Vegetarian piranhas! (but clearly not gluten-free) |
Lago Condenado |
We slowly hiked back to the lodge, enjoying the sights and sounds of the rainforest.
The indigenous people call this the penis plant... |
We saw dozens of these walking palms - an interesting plant because of its strange, spiky root system. In a wild fit of fantasy, (and particularly in the inky blackness of night), one can only imagine a sinister horde of these, skulking their way towards our poor innocent explorers...
So many interesting trees and vines!
Did you know? An epiphyte is a plant that grows on another plant, with no roots reaching the ground. They are divided into two categories - hemi-epiphytes and holo-epiphytes. Plants that only live part of their lives as epiphytes are hemi-epiphytes - when their lianas reach the ground and they root (for example, a strangler fig), they are no longer epiphytes. Those that live their entire lives in the air are holo-epiphytes - like some bromeliads and orchids.
and this little frog who wanted to read about himself! |
Like this curious saddleback tamarin... |
This agouti visited the lodge |
Staying at Refugio was a wonderful introduction to the rainforest - and we couldn't wait to move even deeper into its heart - to the only lodge inside the National Reserve, the Tambopata Research Center...
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