Johannesburg and Pretoria

An early start this morning - we almost missed it because the alarm was turned so low the neither Candice nor I heard it! So we got up at 7:30 for a 7:45 meeting - had a quick bite for breakfast then met at the hotel with our South African guides. First we heard from Keira, our tour guide from Spirit of Africa, who gave us a Quick History of South Africa from the Beginning of Time Until the Present. (Well, maybe her title was different, but that's what it should have been.) She had some really interesting insights on the background of whites in ZA, including the conflict between Boers and the English that led up to Apartheid. We also heard from Mark and Sphesh, guides from Educo Africa, a group that takes disadvantaged youth on wilderness adventures (a program that sounds a lot like Outward Bound). They're here to help us process and understand the things we're about to see.

We then left for Pretoria (the Executive capital of ZA) to visit the US Embassy. The roads here are very nice - for the World Cup last year, they widened the highway so there was virtually no traffic. Many big businesses and offices in modern buildings lined the highway - not what I expected of Africa. But this is Northern Joburg and Pretoria, where the biggest boom of economic development is happening on the continent, so I'm sure it isn't representative.

The US Embassy is a concrete, sterile building where we couldn't take pictures of bring any electronic equipment. We heard from the Minister Counselor of Public Affairs (Karl Stoltz), who gave an overview of US interest in South Africa (which deals in large part on educational and health reform). Also heard from Fulbright specialist Mareka Chabedi who discussed ZA's education system, and Martin Matlebyare, an economics

specialist who talked about ZA's environmental sustainability.

After leaving the embassy, we went to the Union Building Gardens for a picnic lunch. The Union Building is theExecutive house of the government, where the President has an office. Its also where Nelson Mandela was sworn in as president in 1994. There are beautiful tiered gardens with a great view of Pretoria.

After lunch, we drove back to Joburg to the Apartheid Museum. Along the way, we saw the stadium where the World Cup opening and closing ceremonies were held. The Apartheid Museum opened in 2001 and is a really stark but beautiful building. I especially loved the pillars reading "Freedom", "Respect", etc.

The museum gave a history of apartheid in ZA and showed many photos, videos, and articles. Not sure if it was because I'd just gone to the Holocaust Museum, but I didn't find it nearly as depressing as I was expecting. (Although I admit to getting emotional watching the video of FW de Klerk's speech when he freed Nelson Mandela).

Had dinner at Gramadoelas Restaurant, in the

old market building. It was an interesting restaurant with great decor, serving all kinds of traditional African foods. Tried fried mopane worms and ostrich, among other things. Delicious!

Now we're back at the hotel, and I'm trying to warm up. It is reaaallly cold here, unusually so, and they say it's the coldest day they've had this year. Supposedly there is a cold front that is only going to last a few days. But in the meantime, Welcome to Winter!