Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Cape Town

July 31 - Cape Town
Another full day, with an early wakeup and departure from Durban. Had a morning flight to CT - I sat across from JL, so I had a nice talk with him about his life, spirituality, Toyota, and the program. He seems like he's genuinely impressed with the program and likes supporting it, which is nice to know.

Arrived in Cape Town in time for a quick lunch at the V&A Waterfront - ate with Amy and Osha, takeout Thai food in a fast half hour, then a quick bus to the ferry. Went across to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was held as a political prisoner for 18 of the 27 years he was incarcerated. The ride over was sunny but windy, cold, with a great view of Table Mountain and Cape Town. (Oh! On the way from the airport, saw some wild zebras on the slopes of Table Mountain!)

Robben Island is now a museum, kind of a sterile place, with guides who are former prisoners. We saw both the communal and solitary cell blocks - including Nelson Mandela's, and heard about the experience of our guard. Seems like they survived because there was great camaraderie - they really supported each other and became a family.

Nelson Mandela's prison room

Surprisingly, there is ow a small permanent settlement on Robben Island with both former prisoners AND former wardens living together!

Toured around the island on the bus - saw the leper graveyard, small town, and viewpoint to Cape Town. Also the quarry where prisoners worked. Lots of wild birds on the island, including penguins - we saw a bunch on the drive!

The guide is Xhosa, which is a click language, and I got a video of her explaining the Khoi Khoi origins of Table Mountain and the legends of two ancient rulers who drowned and are now ruling from the bottom of the sea. Hear some Xhosa:


Had a cold and windy ride back to Cape Town, then went to the hotel to check in on Pam - we're in a small room in the Manor House, but it's clean and comfortable.

Cool upcycled decor!
Had dinner at Africa  Cafe - a fun, touristy restaurant with cool recycled-bottle decoration. A very pan-African menu, but best of all was the singing/drumming by the servers after the meal. A very fun way to end the night.









August 1 - Cape Town
An amazing day visiting local families and seeing the struggles that communities are facing with poverty, domestic violence, and AIDS/TB.

Went this AM to Delft Township, to a community activist project called Afrika Tikkun. Their focus is on Youth Development, family support services, and health care for disadvantaged people. We visited their facilities, but the true interesting part of the day was the home visits to families receiving help from the organization. It was a difficult visit, but enlightening.

We first saw a shanty that was being built for a small family (a mom with 2 kids). It was built of corrugated metal with a cement floor - cold in winter and so hot in summer that they are known as "microwave shacks." It was tine - about 8 ft by 12 ft, with a small window and wood door.

Microwave Shack
Net we visited a grandma in a government subsidized home - cinderblock and more permanent, but still very rough. The mother was a drug addict who'd been raped twice and had no support until Afrika Tikkun came in - she was sent to rehab and the grandma was raising her two young kids. There was an air of despair exuding from the home, and both women we met begged for help (blankets for the kids).

The bedroom
The second home was a family with 11 children - we met 7 of them, around ages 9 to about 20, none of whom were in school. The family was absolutely beautiful - they were colored (not black), with gorgeous features and striking eyes. The mother started crying when she told her her story - a neighbor's car had gone missing and the keys were found in her house, so she had to move around a lot to avoid retribution.

The house was way too small for the large family - not enough beds, and the mom said she was grateful that none of her kids had committed suicide yet because of the awful life they had.


The family counselors we went with, Mickayla and Amanda, were lovely people with a lot of dedication. They were themselves from the Hague area of Delft; in their early 20s, and so friendly and caring.

Kids at Afrika Tikkun
After the home visits we debriefed at Afrika Tikkun, had lunch from their kitchens - the same thing they were serving - rice with a chicken/lentil stew. IIE gifted them with 500 spoons - something they really needed and appreciated. We're all hoping to buy shoes for the family counselors - something many of them don't have.




After lunch, we went to a different part of the Township - Mfuleni, to see young girl dancers in their after school program. They were amazing, and we learned a dance with them, which was a lot of fun.



We debriefed with Educo-Africa - Mark and Sphesh, at the Africa Democracy Institute. The room was so cool - there was a chandelier with a life-sized statue of a flying Bishop Desmond Tutu hanging from the ceiling. The debrief wasn't nearly as emotionally draining as the J'burg one - thank goodness - I think because the day's visits, even though it was difficult to see, was actually empowering because the people had hope and were trying to lift themselves out of the situation they were in.

Dinner was on our own, so we ate a 'pot luck' at the hotel in the apartments. Was really nice talking outside to everyone, and it wasn't too cold (hooray!) Luckily we have a free morning tomorrow, so many of us are planning to go to Table Mountain.

August 2 - Cape Town

What a gorgeous day today!! It was wonderfully warm and sunny, and we had a free morning (our first free time since we've arrived!) So a group of us decided to hike at Table Mountain, so we left around 8:45 and took a cab to the cable car. It is wonderfully built - there is a rotating platform in a circular funicular, so you really get to see all around as you go.up the mountain. The ride is quick, and there is just a funicular station, gift shop, and restaurant at the top. Other than that, it's just trails and an absolutely amazing view of Cape Town. From the top you can see both the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, and you can look down south to the ocean or North up into Africa. It is truly very flat up top (and not that wide - maybe 200-300 yards) - so it is easy to see why its called Table Mountain. I went around with Eric - walked around the main 'table', then decided to hoof it to Maclear's Beacon, about 30 minutes from the cable station. We were walking very fast, but got to take some time at the point and take several pictures. Its really windy but not cold up top, but I can see how it would be freezing if the fog rolled in.
Maclear's Beacon

Candice, Alicia, and me
Had a brisk walk back to the able car and shared a cab van (9 of us) back to the hotel. Ate a picnic-y lunch of leftovers at the boy's apt, then had to get to the bus by 1:30 to head to Kirstenbosch, where we met the ZA teachers. Candice and I are partnered with Alicia Keet, a science teacher in a high school about 30 minutes from here in a township. We'll get to see the school on Friday, and have dinner at her house.


Got to spend almost 2 hours walking around the gardens, which are really beautiful. There is a huge variety of plant species, many from the Fynbos region (where we're located). ZA has over 23,000+ species of vascular plants and is one of the only 6 Floral Kingdoms in the world. We learned a bit about the South African National Biodiversity Institute, which educates and maintains environmental stewardship in South Africa.

Dinner was at 6 Spin Street, and it was nice talking to several SA teachers. I sat with Sunett, who is actually not a teacher but works in community conservation. Dinner was delicious, especially the Mulva (pronounced mulfa) pudding dessert!



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