The City of Joy

SUNDAY
Today was strictly a travel day, with a gloriously late departure from the hotel in Madurai and two flights (the first stopping in Chennai, then on to Kolkata). It was raining and a balmy 31°C (about 88°F) when we landed, and we piled into the bus to our hotel (the luxurious 1880's colonial villa-turned hotel, the Oberoi Grand).

Kolkata, formerly Calcutta, is the capital of West Bengal. Because it was the capital of British-ruled India, the city has a lot of colonial architecture and influences. For me, the most I know is that it was the home of Mother Teresa, whose Missionaries of Charity help the most disenfranchised members of society. Because of that, I always associated Kolkata with abject poverty (which I'm sure exists), but during the bus ride into town, we were surprised by the "Las Vegas" feel - with rope lights everywhere and enormous, elaborate buildings reminiscent of the huge hotels of the Vegas Strip. We'll see tomorrow if Kolkata during the day feels the same!

MONDAY
The morning was chock full of lectures, held at the US Consulate office... proudly displayed right as we walked in were portraits of Barack Obama, Joe Biden, and John Kerry... funny how everyone around, including myself, gave an 'Awwww, a familiar face!" sigh when we saw them!

The lectures were excellent - the first was by Dr. Debal Deb, an environmentalist who founded the largest NGO fold rice gene bank in India (with over 1,300 varieties of rice!). He discussed how development and sustainability are fighting against each other in Eastern India, and how we need to take into account the non-use value (rather than the direct use or indirect use value) of biodiversity. He is a big proponent of the multiple cropping system, rather than the monoculture system used by mega-industrial development. Sadly, biophilia (love of life) is being replaced in the market economy by necrophilia (love of death).

Ms. Shubhra Chatterji then spoke about the need for not only access to education for the poor, but access to quality education. She is a proponent of improving the quality, and the continual assessment of schools and students doesn't do anything to improve quality unless changes are made in the system.

British influence can be seen in the
buildings all over Kolkata

The last speaker, Professor Niladri Chatterjee, gave us an introduction to Kolkata focusing on the architecture of the northern part of the city - traditionally the 'black town', where Indians lived during the colonial period. He gave us a wonderful overview of the history of Calcutta, British rule, the love of Queen Victoria, and the influence of Britain that can still be seen in many of the buildings. Interestingly, architecture sends a message... that of power, wealth, or knowledge.

After lunch, we went to SANVED, an NGO that works with victims of violence, sexual abuse, and shelter children and helps them cope by using dance-based therapy. By making dance empowering and transforming, it is used in the healing process and provides a safe place for these women to be free to be themselves. We were then taken through a 30-minute dance therapy session, and from that short experience, the power of dance was definitely felt by everyone in the group.

That night, Chris, Matt, Giancarlo, and I went to a nearby hotel restaurant for authentic Bengali food. It was Thali, as usual, and while many of the dishes looked familiar, it was definitely much spicier than any other food that we've eaten. Delicious nonetheless!

TUESDAY

At the food supplement
manufacturing plant, CINI

A long car ride took us across the city to an NGO that deals with children and mothers: Child in Need Initiative (CINI). Their focus is on improving health, nutrition, education, and protection of deprived women and children. Because the founder is a pediatrician, they seem to focus a great deal on health and nutrition, primarily prenatal and infant nutritional needs.

In the Oberoi lobby - why
yes, he IS combing the rug...!

We had a little free time in the afternoon so Mario and I went for a quick shopping excursion right outside our hotel. The Oberoi Grand is an opulent, 5-star hotel (where the staff follows you down the hall to walk you to the elevator and tries to carry all your bags, even small shopping bags). Right outside the guarded gates is a street market, with vendor stalls and merchants calling out their wares of cheap sunglasses, t-shirts, and plastic toys. It's quite the contrast, much like everything else in India.

Mohinyattam dance

Consul General Hall

That night we went to the American Center, and were greeted by the Consul General Craig Hall. We had a classical Indian dance performance by Priyadarshini Ghosh, followed by a dinner and meet-and-greet session with various professionals and academics.

I spent my time talking to a Fulbright researcher working on the history of fossil fuels in India, as well as Dr. Deb, the ecologist from the day before. He had an interesting take on the environment, and how culture, religion, and folklore form many behavioral norms (when dealing with the environment), and we've lost touch with the foundation of these stories (which is why things we used to hold sacred, we now abuse). It was a fascinating discussion, and I really want to take Dr. Deb up on his offer of visiting his rice bank and farm in Odisha (south of Bengal).

WEDNESDAY
A great day exploring Kolkata, both old and new. We spent the morning on a walking tour of the northern part of the city, the traditionally "black" part of town. More on this in a post of its own!

Squeezing 5 adults in a taxi

Following lunch, Eric, Abbey, Mark, Mario, and I decided to go tea tasting and shopping. We squeezed ourselves into a cab and rode out to the tea shop that Eric heard about. The first place had a ridiculously long line, so we walked down the street to a smaller store and did our shopping. We all bought the assam masala, then tried their darjeeling (which is supposedly what everyone in Bengal drinks). I bought a more expensive kind - supposedly a good quality, but then we stopped at the first shop and had REALLY expensive darjeeling. Of course, as tourists we were probably completely ripped off, but nonetheless we bought ourselves a small sampler for a taste test. Both stores were happy to give us a cup of their darjeeling, which was flavorful but we all thought was brewed longer than we would have liked.

Gettin' our tea on

Another squeezed ride in a taxi brought us back to the hotel just in time to meet the group for our home visit. We traveled to northern Kolkata to see a traditional Bengali family home - meaning several generations and extended family live under one roof. We were met at the door by the 92 (or maybe 96) year old grandpa, a slight, kindly man who ushered us into the house and up to the second floor (meaning up two flights). Living in the house were the two sons and their families (although one son is working in Africa). It's getting less common for Indian families to live together as extended units, so it was nice seeing the community that this family has made for itself.

The view from the rooftop terrace

THURSDAY
Our final day in Kolkata started with a visit to a local ('peri-urban') village just outside the city. SAFE, the South Asian Forum for the Environment, is working with locals to provide safe drinking water access, as well as creating a recycling project to turn former landfill paper into artisan crafts. The water initiative uses solar power to run their filtration system, and each family is given an RFID card to  access 10 L of water. If their usage goes over 300L in a month, they are charged a fee which helps with the upkeep of the system. The filtration system filters about 60% of the water into drinking water; the remaining 40% is used for their sanitation system - ie, their toilets. It's a brilliant, sustainable system that is helping all of the families (about 540) in the local area.

Anointed by the Ganges

This afternoon, 10 of us decided to visit the Kali Temple and Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity Home. We took a subway from the hotel to Kalighat, the ride being a teeming mass of sweaty bodies pressed together like sardines. And when we got to the right station, it was a mad rush trying to get out, with Mark thankfully pushing us to make sure we got out the door. The monsoon rain was just stopping as we exited the subway station, and we made our way down the road to get to the Kali Temple.

Hooray! I haven't drowned!

Halfway there, we turned down Kalighat Road and realized it was completely flooded from the monsoon - the Ganges had overflowed and river stood between us and our destination. But we'd come this far... we had to get through! So we rolled up our pant legs and braved the muck. Thankfully, I have no open wounds on my feet (I'm going to say that mosquito bites don't count)! Can I just say... slogging through two feet of water for 200 meters is quite the experience, especially knowing there is poor sewage infrastructure and questionable sanitation. What was that slimy thing that just wrapped itself around my leg?? What's that blob floating by? Best not to think about it...

Kalighat Temple, from the
cleansing pool

We finally made it to Kalighat, where one of the priests immediately came up and guided us around. Kali is Shiva's consort, who among other things is known as the destroyer. The priest actually did a great job showing us around the temple grounds, and had us say prayers and bestowed blessings. When it was time to go into the inner sanctum, we washed our hands in flavored water and brought a hibiscus flower. The instructions were clear: Enter and find Kali, look her in the eyes (she has three!), throw the flower at her, and exit. And keep your belongings close and beware of pickpockets!!

The Kali figure in Kalighat
from Wikimedia.org

The priest and his helper did a wonderful job blocking the completely chaotic masses that were inside; the walkway was narrow but still had about 4 layers of people between us and Kali, and I had to duck and weave to catch a glimpse of the Goddess. And it was quite a sight - Kali is pure black with three piercing neon red-orange eyes. It was almost physically jarring when I finally caught her eye, and my heart was pounding as I threw my flower across several rows of fighting worshippers to get it to her. Then I rushed (was pushed?) out, not much worse for wear.


After our audience with Kali, we went to the holy tree where each of us in turn recited a prayer, a string was tied around our wrist, and we were blessed with marriage, children, and happiness.

The Home for the Dying Destitute

Right outside Kalighat is the Missionaries of Charity building where Mother Teresa started her Home for the Dying Destitute in 1950. At first the building seemed closed, but Giancarlo worked his magic (uttering the words, "donation") and got us inside.

It wasn't an easy place to be in. The home is a hospital for the most poverty-stricken, neediest, sickest people in Kolkata - those with mental health issues and no families, and who are on the brink of death. Immediately upon entering, we were faced with a room full of green hospital beds,  lined up in military rows. On the far end, two people lay, barely moving.

We were basically frozen, uncomfortable and unsure of ourselves, when a nun came over to talk to us. Sister Inez is originally from Poland, and has worked in India for 4 years. Prior to coming here, she was in Iceland and England, and she says in all the places she's been, nothing compares to poverty in India. Poverty in Poland is nothing like poverty in India, she says, and Iceland? Not even close.

The home cares for people that come looking for help, or who the nuns find out on the street. They clean the most horrible wounds - she mentioned maggots - and help the forgotten (and forgetful) ones to find their families. They also arrange funeral services.

Sister Inez took us around the floor to show us what they were doing. The main ward seemed empty, but then she moved a curtain and led us to the adjoining room - a cafeteria/kitchen - where dozens of men sat silently, all wearing the same red pajama pants. Many had vacant, hopeless stares, some were in wheelchairs, and none of them spoke a word. It was a visceral punch being there, seeing those that are most in pain, and especially seeing row upon row of beds and knowing each person is sick, needy, and alone.

Difficult as it was, today was probably the most meaningful for me during my time in India. Seeing those in need, but also seeing all those who are helping those in need. India continues to amaze me.

Madurai

TUESDAY
A long, long travel day (getting up at 4:30AM) and catching two flights, from Pune to Bangalore, then on to Madurai. Madurai is the heart of rural Indian culture, located in the state of Tamil Nadu. It has the population of a city but the heart and culture of a village. It is by far the most rural city that we've visited, with a smaller 'feel' and a warmer and friendlier vibe.

That evening, we went to the Chella Meenakshi Center for Education Research and Services for a briefing, presentation, and dinner. Just as we finished our registration process, we went outside for a dance performance. As we were waiting, we could hear the drumming of rain to our right. And as the first dance, one calling for rain, began, so did the monsoon. Torrents of rain came down, drenching the performers and most of us sitting in the audience. Even so, it was a wonderful performance. We saw several folk and traditional dances, done by men, women, and children. After the dance we had a dinner of traditional Southern Indian food.


WEDNESDAY
An early morning yoga session began our day, although most of the time was spent with a yoga lecture, explaining the original purpose of yoga (to help with meditation and thought control) and naturopathy. We did two rounds of the sun salutation, but since it was so warm and humid in the hotel, we were sweaty by the end of it.

Soon after, those of us that wanted to went to visit the Vidyalaya Jain school. It ended up being a great visit - we had a question and answer session with the teachers, who were very interested in how schools in the US deal with many of the same issues and problems that Indian teachers face. The school treated us like dignitaries, giving us a warm welcome, giving flowers, and serving a nice breakfast. At the front of the school, they had created a mandala in the dirt - something done during special occasions or when honored guests come. They sat us in front of the audience and introduced each of us individually. We didn't have time to visit any classrooms, but did see the kindergarten area before rushing off to our next meeting.

The Jain School Q&A session

The rest of the group met us at the ASSEFA milk processing plant, which showed the other side of the milk collective that helps rural women gain empowerment and funds. We saw how milk was collected, tested, pasteurized, and packaged - it comes from villages within a 25 km radius, and is sold in a 100 km area.

The Gandhi Museum

We then set off to the Gandhi museum, where we learned the kolattam - ritual stick dance that in the past was only performed by males. After lunch, we toured the Gandhi museum, and saw the sari that he was wearing when he was assassinated.



We then toured the Lions Aravind Institute of Community Ophthalmology (LAICO) eye hospital, where they have perfected large-quantity low-cost cataract surgeries. Their goal is to get rid of all unnecessary blindness, and they have done an excellent job serving the masses. Touring the hospital was a bit uncomfortable, as their methods are SO different from our hospitals (there are no privacy regulations, sanitation doesn't seem very good, and there doesn't seem to be any concern for the patient experience,) but as the director explained, Indians have a very different expectation.

Our banana buffet

For tea, we had a 'banana sampling', where we had a choice of several different types of bananas to try. Kara, Brittany, and I shared 5 different varieties - all were delicious, and tasted very different from each other.

Late return back to the hotel for a quick dinner, then bed since our days here in Madurai are packed!












THURSDAY
Today was another full but great day. We spent the morning at the Meenakshi Amman Temple, a huge Hindu temple complex dedicated to Meenakshi and Shiva. It was supposedly built in the 6th century BC, although the current temple was built in the 16th century. Meenakshi Temple is unusual for a Hindu temple, because the main deity is not the God but the Goddess.

There are 14 gateway towers around the complex, the largest being the southern tower at 170 ft high. Each on is built in the Mughal architectural style, with Italian stucco as the basis for the decorations. And the decorations are elaborate. There are over 30,000 sculptures all around the temple, but the most notable part is the vibrant colors that they are painted. And the figures seem small when you look at the gates from afar, but they can actually be around 6 ft tall.

We spent some time wandering around the inside (the inner sanctum is closed to non-Hindus, but the rest can be seen). It is so big that many of the corridors are filled with market stalls, and we did spend some time shopping.



Right after lunch a hardy few of us went back to the Gandhi museum conference room for another dance lesson - this one a folk dance that traditionally was done by men, but now is done by both men and women. We did our best, although it was hot in the room and we were all so full from lunch.








After a quick shower, we set off again to the music college where we watched a classical Indian concert, with flute, sitar, veena, tabla, and drum.


Dinner was southern Indian food again, at the college, and again eating with our hands. Delicious, but a lot of food!

FRIDAY

An early morning start brought us outside the city, to the Jain caves - an archaeological site in a nearby village called Keelakyuilkudi. This area is sacred because it holds many sacred Dravidian objects - Snake Hill, a holy banyan tree, a perennial pond, and a mountain that can be circumambulated in a day. We climbed up the hill to view the carvings, and Dr. Vidya gave us a 'sermon on the mount' - a lecture about Jain religion in Southern India.  From the top of the mountain, we had a great view of the lush surrounding agricultural region.



At the bottom of the mountain is a Jain cave, which back in the day was a stop along the old trading routes. We had our breakfast by the cave, and viewed the carvings in the cave walls.







From there, we traveled to the Covenant Centre for Development (CCD), an NGO that promotes agriculture based sustainable livelihoods to help women, the landless and small farmers, and backwards tribes. We met in a hot and stuffy school room, and unfortunately we were all so tired and hot that it was difficult to concentrate. We did get to walk around the area, seeing the harvesting of medicinal plants and the packaging of herbal remedies.

Lunch was outside, and it was nice getting a view of the pastoral land. We ate at a long thin table with a view directly into the fields, so it was truly a 'farm to table' meal.

In the afternoon, we drove to the Pamayan farm in Tirumangalam. The farm is a model of organic, self-sustaining farming practices, and he has solar power and a small stepwell to collect rainwater. While we were waiting for our lecture to start, a foot-long lizard fell out of the ceiling and directly onto my lap! I think I was a bit too shocked to do anything, and he fell onto the ground and scampered away.

Each crescent-shaped lake is part of the interconnected tank system,
coming out of the Vaigai River that runs directly through Madurai.

We had a lecture on the watershed of the Madurai area, which manages its water resources by creating a system of tanks (which are more like large ponds) connected to each other by canals. These come from the river that flows directly through Madurai, and divert them into successively smaller tanks in the outlying areas. People can access the water only when the final, furthest tank is full, and that tank is reserved specifically for religious purposes. This method allows everyone in the area to have access to water, and to make the most out of the rainfall and watershed of the region.

For dinner we drove back to Madurai to the CM center, where we had another delicious dinner. It was a loooong day, but full of great information!

Overall, it has been an wonderful but overwhelming few days... this is the India we were hoping for!






SATURDAY

Madurai Seed staff and volunteers

Today was a day of optional activities, but of course I had to try it all!! We started the morning with a visit to Madurai Seed, an NGO that serves the slum community called Karumbalai. They work to develop young people by offering workshops, tutoring sessions, camps, and seminars in order to give them the educational support that their families can't give them. All of their students are first-generation college bound, but last year 100% of their graduates went on to college. And 95% of their staff are volunteers, mostly former Madurai Seed students who return to give back to the community.

With the children of the Karumbalai slums

To get to Madurai Seed's office, we first walked through the neighborhood through the small streets. Everyone we met was friendly and welcoming, smiling and waving as we walked by. And like many Indians that we've met, they all wanted their picture taken - even though it was on our cameras and they wouldn't get a copy of the picture! As we walked down the street, children started following us, calling out their hellos.

Stall on the edge of the old market

After our visit, we stopped by the old market across from Meenakshi Temple to get in some shopping. The market used to be the only place in Madurai where people shopped (this is back in the old days), and it definitely retains its old-school crowded, narrow-aisled feel. Some stalls were even candle-lit, because it seemed as though the power was out some areas. And it was interesting seeing a market in this very old, dark area - with elaborate columns and carvings, and statues of gods and goddesses lining the walls.

Pomegranate seller

Gettin' my mehendi on

We then went to the CM center for the rest of the day, to participate in the "At Home" sessions put on by the CM staff. There were chances to get Mehendi, dances, food, cooking lessons, garland making lessons, and lessons on kolam (sand art, made every morning in front of each doorway to welcome guests and set the tone for the day).

Learning kolam

Stacey and I, with garlands (that we
didn't make - it was too hard!)

We got back to the hotel just in time for our goodbye dinner by the pool, then set out at 9:30PM for a walking tour through the old Madurai business district. This area is perpetually busy - trucks are not allowed into the city after 7PM, so all the unloading of goods happens at night and much of the trading goes on 24-hours.

Arun, the king of spices. His picture is everywhere in the market!

Fruit seller

Garlic and ginger stall

We ended our walk at 11PM, but the lorry load men and women hadn't even started working yet! Nonetheless, it was still a bustling area - Madurai truly is the 'city that never sleeps'!

Food, glorious food

Maya, our Eating Coach

Eating South Indian food takes instruction and practice. That's right - you don't just eat it, it's an entire process, and we got schooled by Maya on the proper methods and technique. The Maya Method works well, so I'm taking it as gospel.

Thali lunch

South Indian food comes on a large metal plate with many smaller dishes. This meal is called a Thali - a veritable buffet of choices mixed together on one plate. We've had several different Thalis (in Delhi, Ahmedabad, our first night in Madurai...), but it wasn't until our lunch on Thursday in Madurai that we got the proper method explained to us. And it really does make a difference...

A South Indian Thali consists of rice, soupy veggies and curries, dry veggies, curd, and many sauces. It comes on a large, lipped platter, usually lined with paper or a leaf. The lip is important - here's why.

Before you begin the meal, remove all the "wet" dishes from the plate, leaving the dishes of vegetables and the rice in the space you've created.  You start with the sambar. This is a mild soup-like dish made with lentils. You divide off a portion of rice and pour the dish of sambar onto it, mixing with your fingers. And not just two or three fingers... if you're going to eat, you gotta get your whole hand into it! You have to mix well (or Mother Maya will tell you you're eating it wrong...!) Then you begin to eat.

And eating is a method in itself. Indian rice isn't sticky, it's the grainy, separated kind that doesn't stay together. And with the soup you've just added, it's not easy getting it into your mouth. The "scoop" technique means you basically have to shovel the food in your fingers and push it into your mouth. There's no delicate way to do this, unless you want to starve.

As you eat your sambar rice, you can add some vegetables - we've had different okras, tomatoes, beans, carrots, and potatoes. They've all been delicious, each cooked in very different flavors and with varying degrees of spiciness. After the sambar, we moved on to the rasam. This is a much soupier dish, with a sour tamarind base and tomatoes. Pour it onto the next portion of rice. The rasam turns your plate into a flood zone, and you're supposed to use the "advanced scoop" method to somehow get this into your mouth. I tried and sort-of did it, but cheated at the end and used my fried papad to scoop up the rest.

The final rice mix is with your curd, a yogurt-like sauce that Maya says is like "home cooking" - if you're ever feeling ill or homesick, just have curd rice and all your troubles go away.

Lunch view, at the CCD farm

The Thalis that we've had in other places are often served by people who come down the line with vats of food, giving scoops of whatever you want onto your plate (instead of having individual little dishes served at once). Other times, we've gone down a buffet line, picking and choosing (and often asking for a taste of everything, because... we've gotta try it!). Every time, it's so much more food than we're able to eat, and always, always delicious.

Dinner at the CM Center