🦈 Sharks - they're JAWESOME!!🇧🇸

Smile for the camera!

SHAAAARK! 

It’s the classic ‘charismatic megafauna’ that elicits wonder, excitement, and (sadly) fear, and it's also a highly misunderstood animal. Who wouldn't want to learn more?!

I was so excited when I found out I was accepted into the Bimini Biological Field Station’s Shark Lab for teachers, so even though the timing meant I’d have to fly halfway across the planet from Saipan to Bimini, I jumped at the chance to go.

It was a looooooooong travel day, getting up at 4:30 in the morning in Saipan to make my flight to Tokyo.

Luckily I was flying with my roommate and new friend Erin, so the 7 ½ hour layover wasn’t too bad. We then flew to San Francisco (where the layover was long enough that I went home to shower and restock my bag), then a redeye to Fort Lauderdale where I met up with teachers Vickie and Sarah. The rest of the 15-teacher cohort met at the airport for our 25 minute charter flight to South Bimini – our little float plane flew over the lagoon by North Bimini, and we could see schools of eagle rays and several sharks swimming in the clear, shallow waters!!

South Bimini is a tiny, low-lying island about 50 miles east of Miami, Florida. It has one paved road, one gas station, and about 150 residents. It’s only about 500 feet from the much more bustling North Bimini (population around 2,500) - but there are no roads connecting the two. 

Pineapple House!

The teachers were separated into two houses – Sharkaholics is right by the beach and housed 6 teachers and instructor Dean, and Pineapple House, with four separate little apartment bedrooms and one main shared room with a connecting bedroom, which housed 9 of us. Right outside our door is a dock and waterway, and along the small shoreline we could see a dozen Cassiopeia jellyfish resting on the sandy bottom.

 

Easing our way into shark infested waters...

That evening, we walked over to the Shark Lab for our introduction and first experience with sharks. We waded into the beach behind the station where there were mangroves and a shallow sandy reef – the perfect place for baby lemon sharks. Lemon sharks are really well researched because they are so numerous and gregarious. They are easily recognizable because they have two almost equally-sized dorsal fins (the fin on their backs that many people associate with sharks). They are also a yellowish brown color (thus the name lemon shark), which lets them blend into the sandy bottom.

Baylie and Felicie, researchers at the lab, were throwing fish into the water in hopes of attracting sharks, and we waded thigh-deep in and waited. Most of the bait was being stolen by sea birds, who were scaring off the baby sharks, but we finally did see two small lemon sharks who were learning how to hunt and pinpoint prey. They were skittish and didn’t come too close, but it was an exciting introduction to our week!

The famed Lab Table

Pineapple House at the field station:
Carly, Vickie,Sean, me, Jules, Jackie,
Mattias, Dylan, and Emily

After a brief introduction to the field station, dinner was at the small (and I think only) resort on South Bimini, the Bimini Sands. A few of us walked down to the beach and walked along the water to get there, which ended up being reaaaaally hot and sweaty (but I guess it was good exercise after so many days of sitting around!!). Dinner was pizza as we watched the sunset and got to know one another. Most people on the island have golf carts (and each house has one to use as well), so I rode home, exhausted.  

The next morning we met at the field station for lunch and lectures on the history of the field station, and on the evolution and diversity of Elasmobranch Fishes. Shark expert Dean Grubbs was a wealth of information – way more than my tired brain could handle, but it was interesting hearing about how sharks ruled during the Devonian era and how sharks, rays, and chimera are now classified. 

There are 1,241 species of Chondricthyans, the class of vertebrates that include chimeras, sharks, and rays that have skeletons made of cartilage. The subclass Elasmobranchs have 5 to 7 gill slits, and sharks and rays are divided based on whether their pectoral (side) fins are fused to their heads. We went through nearly every family of shark and ray, and the main takeaway was that most sharks are small - only a few feet long, and definitely not man-eating predators that most people imagine when hearing the word 'shark'. 

They are also maligned, threatened, and vilified in the media, so we need to be doing a lot more to protect and conserve them (and all marine species)!

Lots of great lectures by Matt and Dean

After lunch at the station, we quickly went back to the house to change into our snorkeling gear. We first went out to a shallow area with the wreckage of a crashed drug plane – it was a fun and easy way to test out our snorkeling equipment. (There were also a LOT of tourist boats, and people sitting on the wreck drinking beer...) The sandy bottom was rich with seagrass, and there were so many different fish around the wreck. My favorite was the jelly-like ctenophore – they looked like transparent, tentacle-less jellyfish that are nearly invisible, but when you pick them up and bring them into the air, they turn into amorphous blobs of water.

From there, we went to slightly deeper water- Nurse Ledge, where we found a large coral rock teeming with fish. For a while I just swam around enjoying the view, when suddenly a nurse shark swam under me! It went under then around the edge of the coral, nosing under and around the rock. It was only after that that I realized there were more hiding under the overhang of the rock, and several swam right by us. Nurse sharks have little whiskers hanging down from their chins to help sense nearby prey. They are basically bottom feeders, staying close to the sandy sediment to suck up small fish and invertebrates. Even knowing they were basically harmless, my first glimpse was a total thrill. I loved following them swim around, although I didn’t realize how exhausting being in the water was (on top of being jetlagged).  

Yep, that's the whole store.

That afternoon we had another (continuation) lecture by Dean, as well as a talk by Baylie about sharks' portrayal in the media. After dinner at the station, we stopped by D&S, South Bimini's only store for snacks, then walked over to see the Sharkaholics house and to watch the sunset.

 

SUNDAY, JULY 23

One of the reasons why the Shark Lab is situated on South Bimini is because of the various diverse habitats found around this tiny island. 

Can't have enough mosquito repellant for a mangrove hike!

Today we traveled to the mangroves of North Bimini, where the sheltered roots provide the perfect habitat for baby lemon sharks. When the tide starts to rise, the baby sharks will swim into the sheltered lagoon to get away from the much larger tiger and bull sharks that patrol the waters near the mangrove’s edge. Many lemon sharks choose the same nursery where they were born to give birth to their own pups, and year after year they’ll return to the same location. It’s sad to note that the entire mangrove forest in Bimini is not protected, and already much of the area has been lost to sandfill for resorts.

We waded through waist- to neck-high water through the mangroves until we reached  a protected lagoon that was the perfect location for a lemon shark nursery.

With a bait can and bits of squid, we lured the sharks over to our side of the lagoon. These were small (between 2-4 ft) sharks that ranged from a few months to a couple years old. We lined up to form a barrier to keep the sharks on one side, then waited while Matt threw pieces of squid into the water. Much of our bait was stolen by the snappers, but we were able to dangle squid into the water and when the little shark would come close, we’d drop the food in and the baby sharks would gobble it up.

Also in the water were jellyfish, small needle-nosed fish, and pufferfish. The roots of the mangrove are teeming with life, and we snorkeled around the edge of the grove to get a closer look at what was living there. Nestled in the roots were bright orange sponges, and we saw baby barracudas,  snails, and so many different fish. In one pit below a root ball, a huge stingray rested in the mangrove roots, and we found several others gliding across the sea grass or half-buried in the sand. There was the biggest sea star I’ve ever seen (Oreaster), as well as a gorgeous sea cucumber.

Potential chum

We stood and made another barrier so that we could draw in older lemon sharks – these were about 4 years old, and much braver as they sometimes squeezed their way between our legs. A large barracuda loitered around the edges, staring menacingly but never coming too close. 

Later, when we drove a bit further out to see if we could find any blacktip sharks, several other barracuda came to join the party – as did a pair of curious tarpon who found us lacking and quickly swam away. Unfortunately there weren't any blacktips, possibly because the water temperature was so high - it was 91° that day! Chelle thought that may have driven the sharks further north to cooler temps.

Our next day’s outing was to Honeymoon Harbor near Gun Cay, just south of Bimini, where we would be baiting for stingray. The southern stingray has a flat diamond-shaped body, well adapted to stay on the ocean floor. On the top of its head are the eyes and small openings called spiracles, which take in water that flush through its gills on its belly, next to its mouth. It’s dark grey, olive, or dark brown with a white underside, and the thin tail has a serrated, venomous spine sticking back from its base. We were warned not to step back too quickly or to panic when being mobbed by rays, as they were extremely tolerant of people but would strike with their stinger if hurt or frightened.  

That's me in the white hat, sparkling in the sunlight

It was a smooth 20 minute boat ride down to the beach, and we walked into the water to stand in a line while Matt threw bait in the water to lure in the stingrays. In the lab, Dean and Matt had warned us that the rays would crowd around us – they have no sense of “personal space,” and it was so true! We started by touching the pectorals - flabby, slimy, blobs of flesh that seem too squishy and relaxed to be agents of propulsion. But when the rays swim through the water, they glide gracefully across as though soaring on wings. Soon the rays started to swim between and around our legs, sniffing for the squid juice that we were dripping into the water. Some would even ram straight into us or swim up our bodies, and even the large rays would flap around their wing-like pectoral fins to fit in spaces too small for their big floppy bodies. It was most nerve-racking when a large ray squeezed its too-large soft body in the small space between me and Jules, and the hard spine of its tail brushed against my arm.

 

We were given small pieces of squid to feed to the rays, but warned not to keep our fingers up as they should be fed much like a horse – with our palms flat and the squid held in place between our fingers. But we had to watch out that a hungry nurse shark didn’t come by to nip off a snack! Since the ray’s mouth is on its underside, almost under its eyes, we couldn’t see the mouth but were warned to drop the bait once we felt a light sucking motion. 

They are like floppy ocean puppies!

Because their eyes are on the tops of their heads, they can’t really see what you’re offering and sometimes swim up your body as they search for the source of the smell. I’ll admit – I probably let go earlier than I needed since we had been warned about stingray hickies, but I was mobbed by plenty of rays! 

 

Soon after we dispersed, the stingrays began to drift off as well, and smaller fish started swimming in to look for missed pieces of food. Large schools of tiny silversides flowed by in wave-like ribbons, swimming in synchronized streams. A 2 ft long houndfish hovered nearby, never coming too close. It was a gorgeous, thin needle-like fish with long crocodile jaws, nearly translucent except for bright azure accents. Soon, larger snappers and permit joined the party, and we sat in the sand enjoying the encounter.

 

Our last day snorkeling was to the Triangle, where three very low rocks form a barrier reef that attract Caribbean reef, blacktip, and nurse sharks. Right when we entered the water there was a reef shark cruising along about 25 feet below us, but soon after a large tourist boat of snorkelers joined in, splashing and cannonballing into the water, scaring the shark away. 

Ready to explore the SS Sapona

Because of this, we soon switched locations to the Sapona shipwreck, the remnants of a World War I ship that is now an artificial reef. It’s the perfect location for many species of sponges, corals, and reef fish. We swam around and inside the shell of the wreck, as well as in the seagrass just outside. A couple green sea turtles swam by, surprisingly agile in the water and seemingly unbothered by our presence. We also saw another Southern stingray cruising along.

I'm a fan of this gorgeous sea fan

He's molting!

That night, we went tidepooling at the end of Shell Beach. The sharp limestone made hundreds of small pools where we found limpets, snails, crabs, and urchins. It was fun walking around with Dean, who knew the scientific names of every animal we ran across.

Evening tidepooling with Dean

On our last day, we took a day trip to North Bimini, a short ferry ride away. We hopped onto our golf carts and drove up the ~1 mile to the South Ferry Dock. 

Can't beat me
on our speedy little golf cart!

It started raining when we arrived at the North Bimini dock, so I was glad we weren't having a water day! Our guides picked us up for a tour of the island - we drove up Queen's Road, stopping first at the craft center but we were a bit late in the day so most of the shops were closed. We did see a memorial for Martin Luther King, Jr., who spent some time on Bimini and was a friend of a local bonefisherman who would take him into the mangroves to relax.

One of the most interesting attractions on the island is the Dolphin House, a quirky home built by Bimini local Ashley Saunders, who had a connection with the ocean and particularly with dolphins and who believed in celebrating them in his decor. 

A jawesome group of teachers

The house is covered inside and out in mosaic tiles, shells, and other natural resources, and a tiny lighthouse on the roof is a "Beacon of Hope."

Harvesting fresh conch

From there, we drove up to Stuart's Conch Shack to try their conch salad and bimini knockout punch. (well, some of us just had a coke...). Conch is a common dish served all over the Bahamas, and salad form is one common way it is served. It's like a ceviche, with raw conch cooked in lime juice and served with fresh onions and tomatoes. Delicious! There are hundreds of conch shells littering the sea floor and along the beaches, but we did note that many empty shells seemed undersized (and therefore illegal to harvest). What was once a small local industry is definitely starting to outgrow its sustainability because of the growing demand from tourists.

On our final night, we went back to the beachside bar at the Bimini Sands for dinner and an impromptu concert from Dean. A man of many talents!! While we were there, the lab's friend Kyle stopped by with a Bimini boa that he had found. The Bimini boa is a rare, endemic species that is unfortunately now endangered because of illegal pet trade and loss of habitat. We were so excited to get to see one!

Our week at the Bimini Biological Field Station was such an amazing experience - I learned so much about sharks and rays that will hopefully help demystify them for my students. I loved getting the opportunity to interact with these extraordinary animals, and learning how to do so in a safe and sustainable way. I also loved getting the chance to see the different ecosystems around Bimini and snorkel in such warm, clear waters. I'm grateful to the Save our Seas Foundation, the Bimini Biological Field Station, and all the wonderfully dedicated staff - especially Dean, Matt, Chelle, Baylie, Felicie, Ilijah, and the rest of the team. What an unbelievable end to an incredible summer of adventure, learning, and fun. Thank you!

Marianas Part III: Saipan - Håfa adai & Tirow!

Sunset, San Antonio Beach, Saipan

Saipan is the largest of the Northern Mariana Islands. This archipelago of 14 islands (plus Guam) was formed 42 million years ago when the Pacific tectonic plate subducted under the Mariana Plate, causing volcanoes to form (as well as creating the Mariana Trench - the deepest ocean trench on earth). Because of its location near the Japanese home islands, the Marianas played a large part in the War in the Pacific. For the next week, I would learn about the various historical landmarks around the island, as well as the role that the indigenous Chamorro and Carolinian people played during the war.

One of our lectures was from local historian Genevieve Cabrera, who gave us a quick but complete history of the island: Magellan first supposedly came to the Marianas in 1521, through the Spanish colonies (which is why it was named the Marianas – after Spanish queen Maria Ana, the Caroline Islands were named after King Carlos, and the Philippines after King Phillip) weren't started until over a hundred years later. They forcibly removed the native Chamorros to Guam, and the seafaring Carolinians came to the island after a series of devastating typhoons decimated the Caroline Islands – that’s why there are both Carolinians and Chamorros now living here. Spain then gave up the area after their loss in the Spanish American war, and the Germans briefly came to the Saipan. But their occupation quickly ended when WWI broke out, so the Japanese arrived and worked in sugarcane plantations in harmony with the local population. But their symbiotic relationship broke down at the outbreak of WWII, and when they lost the war and the islands, the Americans took over.

Our first day of the seminar gave us an overview of the island and the historical landmarks around Saipan. We loaded into vans and first drove down to Susupe Park, which is the site of the landing beaches from Battle for Saipan. We got a quick overview of the invasion from underwater archaeologist and maritime studies professor Jen McKinnon. Looking out into the water, the first thing I noticed was the very shallow reef – for more than 200 yards out, the water is shallow enough to walk across. 

After the wave break, the reef drops down to over 100 ft, so the area was an easy and obvious landing area for the LVTs (Landing Vehicle Tracking) and Sherman tanks that the US Marines used for their invasion starting June 15, 1944. Unfortunately, it was also obvious to the Japanese, so it was heavily defended and the invading force had to come ashore under heavy fire. Another problem was that there was a current that the pilots hadn’t accounted for, so the heavy crafts ended up drifting beyond their originally planned landing areas. 

I spy with my little eye... a Sherman tank!

The weirdest sight at this beautiful beach when looking out across the vast Pacific Ocean were the tops of two Sherman tanks, with their gun turrets poking up out of the water. According to the locals, many people wade out and swim around and climb the tanks.

 
We had lunch on the beach (homemade local food of chicken, ribs, red rice, and pickled papaya – delicious!) before loading up into the cars for our tour to landmark sites. We first headed up to the As Lito airfield in highlands near the current Saipan International Airport. Although the airfield had been built by the Japanese in 1934, it was captured by the US early in the battle and turned into Isley Field, a base for B-29 bombers. 

Inside the munitions bunker

We toured the concrete bunkers that once warehoused Japanese aerial bombs. Right outside was a thick concrete wall that was built to protect the surrounding area in the event the bunker was hit and the bombs exploded. 

On the way out, we stopped to see the abandoned tanks and the rest of the As Lito airfield, including the remains of the power station and air raid shelters, as well as several abandoned Sherman tanks.

Clearing Japanese foxholes, June 16, 1944

From As Lito, we drove back north across the island through Death Valley and Purple Heart Ridge, where the Marines faced difficulty and suffered heavy casualties in their charge to take the island. The goal had been for the US to invade the western side of the island (using the shallow reefs to help get forces onto the island), then push inland and up to capture the high ground. Although the assault was more difficult than originally planned, the US managed to capture the island three weeks after the invasion, on July 9, 1944.

We then drove north to the Marpi area, and stopped at the Banzai Cliffs on the northwest coast.

 After the Japanese surrendered Saipan, it was discovered that civilians had been sent propaganda about what would happen if captured by the Americans. They were told that the women and children would be raped or eaten, so many civilians chose to commit suicide rather than be caught. Families flung their young children over the cliff so they wouldn't be taken by the US. It was also part of the Bushido code that surrender was dishonorable, and that death was preferable to capture. Because of this, many soldiers and civilians jumped to their death.

May Peace Prevail On Earth

Being at the Banzai Cliff was emotional and moving. The cliffs themselves are absolutely beautiful, with deep azure blue waters and frothing white waves. But it was a sobering thought that there was a chance you wouldn’t die unless you hit rock, and many people may not have been killed from the jump.
 
Overlooking the Banzai cliff in the limestone mountain was Suicide Cliff, and we drove to the top for a beautiful view of the Marpi area. Again, it was a bit of a surreal feeling looking at the stunning beauty of the view, yet knowing so many people lost their lives there.

All day Friday was spent touring more sites on the Island. 

Army reinforcements wading ashore, a few days after securing
the beach in July, 1944.

We started by stopping at Red Beach, one of the June 15, 1944 invasion day landing areas, to see a Japanese military bunker. These days, the beach is a lovely and relaxing area surrounded by tall trees and other landscaping. The water is clean and clear, with very few people on the beaches. But in the days leading up to the invasion, the Americans had pre-bombed the area to take out as many Japanese bunkers as they could. Nearly all the ground cover had been blown away, and just outside the reef at the height of the invasion, there were so many Navy ships you could barely see any water.

Hello, Tinian!

Agingan Point on Saipan's southern coast is the closest point to Tinian. There is another coastal defensive bunker that once contained guns that were used to defend the strait, and whose range could reach all the way to Tinian. (There also used to be a ferry that crossed the 5 mile strait, but it stopped when the Tinian Dynasty hotel/casino closed). We also saw several sea turtles in the water!

A bit further south on the island is the Obyan Latte site, where we also saw a German-style bunker. 

It's a beautiful, pristine beach with the ruins of what was once a large, ancient Chamorro village. The site was partially destroyed during the preparations for the war, but there are remains of a latte stone house and a small cave.

The pristine Obyan Beach, Saipan

Low tide turns Forbidden Island into a peninsula

On the eastern side of the island is Forbidden Island, a beautiful tidal island that is only connected to the mainland during low tide. Some say it is called Forbidden Island because of the danger in going - not just the difficulty of the hike, but because many people have washed out to see in the strong currents and fierce waves. We took in the view from the overlook on the promontory above.

 

We continued to the center of the Saipan, Mount Tapotchau. Rising up 1,550 feet, it is Saipan's highest point, so it was crucial in the Battle for Saipan. The peak also gives a great view of the entire island. During our picnic lunch, Saipan local Vinny told us about the Easter tradition of carrying a large wooden cross up the mountain and erecting it near the peak.

The view from the highest point on the island

Back over to the northern side of the island, we stopped at the Last Command Post (Jen says it isn’t actually the last post the Japanese had, but it was a convenient tourist spot to see several old guns and to view the old command center built into the rock.

Inside the Last Command Post cave

 

Then we went further up to visit a couple caves -  First Kalabera Cave, which was closed but Fred took us anyway to see the petroglyphs and pictographs. On the site was a reconstructed Chamorro hut, showing the latte stones used to raise the living quarters platform.

On the way home, we stopped for a photo op at Bird Island  - a beautiful spot! 

After a brief rest, Erin and I walked over to Micro Beach at the American Memorial Park (AMP) and waded waist deep in the warm water. It was raining, so we didn’t stay long, but we did visit the defensive bunkers near the beach. 

 
That night we had a film presentation at AMP – We Drank Our Tears was a storytelling project by the children of Saipan, who interviewed their elders to get stories from WWII. We viewed three of these stories that had been made into short films. Very moving and sad, since all of them depicted the remembered stories of people who had friends or family members who died during the Battle of Saipan. 
 

Saturday was originally supposed to be a “water day” along the WWII Maritime Heritage Trail – a collection of underwater heritage sites featuring Japanese and U.S. shipwrecks, assault vehicles, and aircraft wreckage from the Battle of Saipan. In the morning, we headed out on a boat into Tanapag Lagoon, where we’d be able to snorkel and see underwater wreckage. 

We were taken to a sunken Japanese Aichi E13A (Allied code name “Jake”) reconnaissance floatplane. It was upside down in very clear water about 20-25 feet down, so it was so cool to snorkel above it. There were visible bullet holes in the tail and one of the pontoons was detached and resting to the side.

"Have you even HAD dragonfruit unless
you've had dragonfruit on a boat after
snorkeling in a lagoon on Saipan?"

Unfortunately Instructor Jen got stung by a box jellyfish (! but she's ok!) so they cut the snorkeling short and we were only able to swim at that one site – but we did get a nice boat tour of the lagoon and of Managaha Island. 

Boatbuilder John

After a nice nap, we met at the AMP to go to the 500 Sails building at Susupe Beach to see the traditional boats and talk to apprentice John about boatbuilding. The native Pacific Islanders were all seafaring people, who have a long tradition of building boats and navigating the seas using just the winds, currents, and stars. But the skills are being lost in the younger generations, so there was a push to revive the old maritime traditions before they are lost. John is an apprentice to a master boatbuilder, and he explained how to build the traditional Chamorro outrigger canoes using the traditional materials and techniques.

While at the 500 Sails hut, we also saw the provisions that had been donated for the Alingano Maiso, a twin-hulled catamaran that arrived from Palau and was leaving the next day for the journey back to Palau.

On the way back to Garapan, we asked to be dropped the Liberation Day Festival, celebrating the island’s July 21, 1944 liberation from Japanese occupation. There were various events happening all week, with lots of food booths, a bingo hall, and bandstand. We tried a few rounds of bingo - we didn't win, but it was a lot of fun!

 

Sunday was our optional day and we chose to spend the day "Fredding" - exploring the island caves with Fred Camacho, local cave expert and amateur historian. 

The interior of the island is made up of rocky limestone, perfect for a vast network of caves that were used during the war as hideouts, storage bunkers, hospitals, and even command centers. Even before the Japanese had occupied Saipan, prehistoric people had used the caves as different petroglyphs have been found in several of them. Freddy took us to three caves – the first up a rocky stream-bed ravine, scrambling through loose rocks and mud and ducking under fallen trees. There were even areas where we needed a rope to help get us up, and it was very, very, very hot and humid, so it was sooooo dirty…! But a lot of fun! 

That first cave that we explored was known to be one of Sakae Ōba’s hiding spots – the Japanese soldier who evaded capture for over a year after Japanese surrender by hiding in the dense jungle and caves of the inner island. the Japanese were known to dig the tunnels 6 ft wide by 6ft high, and that particular tunnel was “E” shaped (with a few smaller nooks). 

Preparing the ropes for our 
climb into Oba's cave

To get inside, we had to use a rope to pull ourselves up a 3’ cliff wall. Based on the artifacts that had been left there, it was assumed to be a field hospital. Most of the artifacts were cleared out, but we did find pottery and glass shards. It also had tiny frogs jumping around inside!!

The second tunnel, a slightly easier hike, had signs of charring/fire, possibly from grenades or flame throwers. The flames were so hot that it melted glass. We could also determine the direction of the flames based on the charring left on the walls of the cave.

Wild forest mangoes. YUM

On the way to the third cave, we tried starfruit and picked up mangoes from a huge tree growing wild in the jungle. We also passed by a Japanese bunker and antiaircraft gun.

 

A mother with four children, found by Marine patrol
on June 14, 1944

The last cave had more rubble on the ground (a sign that it perhaps had been shelled/bombed), fire scars, and human bone remains. There were more artifacts left in that cave – a glass button, a ‘go’ game piece, remnants from Japanese grenades, bullet casings, a buckle, and part of a pistol. 

Photographer W. Eugene Smith was sent to
document the Battle of Saipan

From what we found, it was obvious that civilians had used the cave to hide out. 

Artifacts left in the cave

At times during the day, we did have to pause and think about what it would have been like as a Japanese or Chamorro civilian, who had to abandon their home and hide in the caves to escape the fighting. The caves were also used by Japanese soldiers, so when the US Marines came to clear out the island, it was never known whether whoever was hiding inside was a friend or foe. It must have been terrifying for both sides, and sadly there would have been so many casualties from mistaken identity.

 

That night, we met Vic, who had been CNMI’s Teacher of the Year the same year as Erin and is an agriculture teacher who has his own farm. We met at the Saipan Surf Club for dinner, which was right on the beach and had a lovely view of the sunset. Vic and his wife Angel were a wealth of information, telling us great stories (The saltwater crocodiles! The invasive land snails! His aunt’s mom serving Amelia Earhart!). 

Dinner at Shirley's with Erin, Emily, Vic, me, Angela, and Aileen

We also had dinner with Vic the next evening, and he brought us a huge WWII shell casing to examine, plus coconut candy (apigigi) and mangoes and fresh green coconut from his farm. Delicious, and a great taste of sustainable island produce! 
 
Monday was an all-day indoor day at Garapan Elementary

In CA schools, it's all about earthquake prep;
 in Saipan, it's Unexploded Ordnance

, with presentations by Nancy Bo Flood about her book, and presentations by indigenous Carolinians about their experiences and knowledge. Navigator Lino Olopai was particularly entertaining, with stories about sailing, the Carolinian culture, and about living in the internment camps during WWII. 

Carillon Bell Tower and Memorial

In the evening, Erin and I walked over to the American Memorial Park to see all the outdoor memorials. Not only are there tributes to the US servicemen who died during the war, but to the indigenous Chamorro and Carolinians who lost their lives.

Setting off for their month+ long
voyage across the Pacific

While there, we wandered over to Smiling Cove to see if we could catch a glimpse of the Palau catamaran – and we got there just in time to see it set off! There were several people waving goodbye, and someone on the catamaran was blowing a conch shell.
 

On our final day on Saipan, we spent the morning Fredding. We visited an old ‘refrigerator’ cave where Japanese used to store  beer and sake for the officer’s club located on the cliff above it. 

We then went past the area where unexploded ordinance is taken to be disposed of (Fred says sometimes people just drop off their found grenades in front of the fence!) 

We hiked into the forest (where we saw several monitor lizards!) to a sinkhole hidden in the dense jungle growth. We could only imagine running through the dark forest and stumbling into this huge gaping maw! After carefully climbing down, we squeezed our way through a small opening into a large underground chamber used by several Japanese families (or soldiers?). There were many war era sake bottles, as well as Japanese graffiti left on the wall.

It was a real spelunking experience!

Our last stop was at a much more formal tunnel, with smooth concrete walls, floor, and ceiling. It was located near a drainage ditch behind the gas station on the main road, but hidden behind enough greenery that most people probably didn't even know it exists. It was also the only place we saw cockroaches - huge ones, all over the walls. Ew.

Suicide Cliff. The jagged scar in the limestone is where Americans blasted the cliff wall,
attempting to neutralize Japanese anti-aircraft guns

That evening, we had a happy hour on the beach, to say goodbye and reflect on our week. I loved meeting the people, especially the warm and welcoming locals, and I enjoyed learning about the island. I'm particularly fascinated by the War in the Pacific, and wonder why the narrative of the Marianas is so unknown. When I first told people about the workshop, not one knew where Saipan even was. To be honest, I didn't even know exactly where the Marianas were located. And I certainly didn't know what role the islands played in World War II's Pacific Theater. I'm so glad I could fill in this missing piece of history!

I'm grateful to Anne, Jen, Fred, Nancy, and the rest of the team for this opportunity and for putting together an amazing workshop. It was a great week of learning, exploring, and meeting wonderful new friends!